Cosmetics and Toiletries in Europe

Latest research from Mintel studying cosmetic usage across the UK, France, Spain, Germany and Italy highlights the British as the highest European users of makeup.

Lipstick is the most popular form of makeup, with almost 80% of British women applying this, some 64% of British women are users of eye make-up, followed by foundation at around 60% and nail varnish at 55%. Although British women are the most likely to apply makeup, the frequency of which they apply makeup is lower than the average European. While fewer Germans are applying makeup, those who are applying it do so more frequently.

Usage of nail varnish is particularly low in Italy, where just a fifth of Italians opt for painted nails compared to around 55% of British women. Coloured nail varnish has not enjoyed particular popularity in Italy until fairly recently and usage is low in comparison to the other four European countries. 'Low levels of nail varnish usage in Italy could reflect the fact that Italian ladies are more likely to visit professionals, such as beauty and nail parlours for nail varnish application. The use of gaudy colours is also considered vulgar by some of Italy's more mature female consumers' comments Anne Bourgeois, Consumer Analyst.

While face and skincare products once tended to focus on restorative functions, their preventative aspects are now coming more to the fore, this is particularly true in Germany and the UK. Anti-ageing products have become a key growth segment and have been marketed increasingly to younger women, on the basis that prevention is better and easier than cure. As a result, the boundary between cosmetics and medicinal products is becoming more blurred.

The market for environmentally-friendly cosmetics and toiletries is growing particularly fast in Germany: by 10-20% annually, taking all products together. Preservative-free products are particularly popular as 30-40% of Germans are reported to suffer from allergies. It is younger consumers who favour such products. In the UK, there has also been a growing emphasis on 'caring' and natural ingredients, on environmentally-friendly products not tested on animals and on increasingly sophisticated packaging.

Technological developments mean that more advanced versions of products are possible. Ingredients, such as AHAs and vitamins, that until recently were considered alien to cosmetics and toiletries may now be found in creams and the like. More affluent Germans, at least, remain interested in experimenting with such products, with almost two thirds of those earning over euro 52,500 a year stating an interest in innovations in cosmetics. Cosmetic and toiletry products are gaining a more 'holistic' image in Germany, ideally treating the mind and soul as well as the body. As aromatherapy, for instance, gains in popularity, consumers become more aware of the specific influences of essential oils on the psyche, and select cosmetic products accordingly.

Natural products, one-dose packs and keenly priced innovations will do best this decade in Germany. Prevention will continue to be seen as more important than cure. Colour cosmetics will increasingly feature care functions such as moisturising. However, consumers are unlikely to reduce their usage of skincare products as a result.

Spanish men are the most likely to agree that skincare products are for women and not men, with some 27% of this group of this opinion. Overall, European men are quite positive as regards male skincare, with over 40% of all European males believing that men should use skincare products. Usage of facial skincare by men varies throughout Europe, with almost a third of German men being users. Furthermore, the male-specific skincare sector accounts for just 1% of the market in France and 2% in Italy. 'Given the relatively high level of usage of facial skincare products by men in Europe it seems clear that men are using women's products, leading to considerable scope for value-added products targeted solely at men' comments Anne Bourgeois.

Ironically, suncare usage is highest in Britain, despite the notoriously poor summers. Here some 68% of women and 57% of men use suntan preparations and usage is above average in all age groups under 55. In general, suncare usage is considerably higher among women than men. The contrast between men and women is greatest in Spain and France where women are almost twice as likely to apply suntan lotions, oils and creams than men. In many cases usage by women is likely to extend to application on children.

Despite warning of the dangers of unprotected sun exposure, European men are failing to look ahead to the dangers of the sun. Around 70% of French and Spanish men and over 50% of German men still do not apply sun creams, lotions or oils.

The main demand for suncare comes from those on higher incomes who travel abroad more frequently and who are more aware of the dangers of being unprotected from the sun. This may be less strong in future as there are a number of economy brands on the market and promotional offers such as three-for-two are increasingly common and the real cost of holidays abroad continues to decline.

German women are the most likely to strive for an all-year tan, with over a third desiring a winter tan. Added value features considerably in German cosmetics, suncare lines that also repair the skin have been a popular recent launch in Germany.

Despite warnings, sunbathing continues to be a favourite summer-time activity in Italy. Sun-tanning products take up considerable space on the shelves of perfumeries from late-April, the most popular still being those that help achieve a fast tan. Sun-protection is of lesser importance to the Italian consumer. Spray-on self-tanning products have proved an important innovation and are performing well. 'On a positive note for the industry, usage is highest among the under 45s and it is likely that overall penetration levels will rise over time as younger adults continue to realise the importance of sun protection' comments Anne Bourgeois.

The Italian consumer places considerable emphasis on looking good. Outward appearance is very important and denotes social status. Make-up has gained respectability since the mid-1970s and most women wear it to some degree. Skincare products are popular, as are preparations that claim to reduce and remove cellulite. Star performers in Italy have been anti-cellulite treatments and skin-firming products, which both saw sales more than double over the past four years. Anti-cellulite treatments are particularly popular in the late spring as Italian women prepare for the beach. Despite a recent rise in the birthrate, this is unlikely to affect the long-term trend towards an ageing Italian population. The trend is for people to have more money to spend on themselves and personal hygiene products would seem ideal candidates. Levels of disposable income remain high in Italy. Young people prefer to live at home and spend their salaries on clothes and personal care products rather than using that money on rent to buy independence. This is unlikely to change.

Almost nine out of ten French and German women use facial moisturising creams once a day or more. In terms of age, those aged between 35 and 64 living in France are most likely to be users, with usage rising to over 90%. Usage by those in Germany aged 15-19 and 45-54 is also among the highest in Europe at over 90%. By contrast, daily usage of facial moisturiser is the lowest in Spain and Italy, at just over 70%. In Spain, less than 50% of those aged 15-19 years are users, possibly because they feel frequent use is not necessary at their age. Even so, they may benefit from products containing UVA and UVB filters to help prevent skin damage starting at a young age.

All articles 2006-22 written and edited by Mel Crowther and/or Nick Thomas unless otherwise stated.

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